PRISM Winter 2009

AGTA

Spectrum Awards™

A Model

P hotographer T he Woman Behind the T rophies Member Profile: M ark Schneider

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PR I S M I W I N T E R 2 0 0 9

Letter

Fr o m t h e

When I became President of the AGTA

President

our Members’ businesses survive and im-

in the fall of 2007, we all knew that there

prove, and to grow our organization both

was a management crisis in our Associa-

in numbers and in worldwide recognition.

tion. In the past 1.5 years, the staff and

BJ and I have worked closely together dur-

Board have sailed to a smooth recovery.

ing this past year to guarantee a smooth

Here are the highlights:

transition of leadership and continuance of

1. The Dallas office is producing more

the objectives established by the Board of

Member Benefits and more gemstone

Directors. BJ has shown a total commit-

promotions than ever before.

ment to our Members and the AGTA, and

2. Spectrum was a huge success and

I am sure he will be an outstanding Presi-

received more internet and publication

dent for your Association.

coverage than prior years.

Having said all this, we are going into

look to you and rely on you for your con-

3. Last year AGTA GemFair™ Tucson

one of the most difficult times any of us

tinuing participation in the Association

was the most successful trade show.

has ever faced. This will be a test for many

that is The Authority in Color™.

4. The GTC is performing better than it

of us as businesses as well as for the AGTA

has ever done since its inception.

as an organization. How can we grow

ful 2009 and a successful AGTA Gem-

With Douglas Hucker and Lore Kiefert

while controlling expenses; grow while

Fair™ Tucson! ▲

at the helms of our ships, we are moving

prioritizing our goals and grow while sac-

in a very positive direction. We have all

rifices have to be made? I am confident

worked toward a common goal of making

that we have the team in place to overcome

our Association more meaningful to our

the obstacles before us.

Members and to our industry. As Benjamin

I will enjoy sitting on the Board as

(BJ) Hackman expressed in his letter, we

the Past President, and will be chair-

have many projects in the works to help

ing the Nominations Committee. I will

I wish you all the best. Have a wonder-

Sincerely,

Barbara Lawrence AGTA President

L e t t e r Fr o m t h e I n c o m i n g P r e s i d e n t Greetings to my fellow AGTA Members:

the best possible professional Staff and a

For the past 27 years, AGTA has been

most-dedicated Board of Directors at its

in the forefront of the colored gemstone in-

disposal. We’re working diligently to:

dustry. Unfortunately, as everyone is well

1. Grow and sustain AGTA GemFair™

aware, we are experiencing a very difficult

Tucson as the world’s premier colored

financial period in the United States and

gemstone trade show.

the entire world. Hardly any businesses are

2. Improve AGTA GemFair™ Las Ve-

immune to this economic downturn. This

gas in order to attract more buyers from

means that we all have to work harder to

the manufacturing and designer pavil-

maintain our current status at home and

ions to buy from our Members.

abroad.

3. Increase our Membership, particu-

I’ve been involved with the AGTA since

larly Retail Members, by 10% per year.

and service performance.

its inception. With my long association as

4. Remain fiscally sound and respon-

6. Continue improving our Source

a Member and a Board Member over the

sible to our Membership – to spend our

Directory and www.agta.org so that

years, I can say with confidence that our

money wisely and effectively.

they serve as marketing tools in the

Association is extremely fortunate to have

5. Improve the GTC’s turn-around time

2

(continued on page 4)

PRISM|WINTER 2009

Board of Directors

Membership Benefits The American Gem Trade Association is a not-for-profit Association of United States and Canadian gemstone professionals dedicated to promoting awareness and appreciation of natural colored gemstones and cultured pearls. Founded in 1981, the AGTA has over 1,100 Members representing leading colored gemstone and cultured pearl wholesalers, retail jewelers, jewelry manufacturers, designers, colored diamond dealers, estate dealers and industry professionals. AGTA Members are proud to uphold the highest ethical standards, agreeing to the Association’s strict Code of Ethics, Constitution and full disclosure of gemstone enhancements. Membership provides you with many exclusive benefits and services:

Pr e siden t Barbara Lawrence Boston Gems and Findings, Inc. Vice Pr e siden t Robert Bentley Robert Bentley Company, Inc. Benjamin Hackman Intercolor, Inc. Secr eta r i e s Betty Sue King King’s Ransom Kambiz Sabouri Gem 2000, Inc. Tr e a s u r e r Sampat Poddar Byrex Gems, Inc.

Members are eligible to exhibit in some of the most important annual events in the gemstone and jewelry industry, including AGTA GemFair™ Tucson, AGTA GemFair™ Las Vegas, JA New York and The Instore Show.

Dir ector s John Bachman John M. Bachman, Inc.

Members are listed and granted four free listings in the AGTA Source Directory. This is a powerful tool that gives access to a valuable network of fellow gemstone professionals. Over 20,000 copies are distributed! Members receive preferred pricing for services at the AGTA Gemological Testing Center and on a large variety of marketing materials. Members stay informed about all the hot topics surrounding our industry and the AGTA with the quarterly Prism newsletter and weekly ePrism. Members have access to leading industry programs. These programs include Bank of America Merchant Services, FedEx Express® Shipping, FedEx Declared Value, FedEx Kinkos, insurance programs through Association Health Programs and the Office Depot: Taking Care of Business program. The professionalism of AGTA Members continues to set them apart from the competition.▲

Pr ism is distributed quarterly for American Gem Trade Association Members. F o r f u r t h e r i n fo r m a t io n o r t o a d ve r t i s e , ple a s e c o nt a c t : Joshua Garcia American Gem Trade Association 3030 LBJ Frwy., Ste. 840 800-972-1162 www.agta.org

Dallas, TX 75234

Peter Bazar Imperial-Deltah, Inc. Sushil Goyal Liberty Gems, Inc. Bill Larson Pala International, Inc. Glenn Lehrer Lehrer Designs, Inc. Gerry Manning Manning International, Inc. Joe Orlando Stuller, Inc. Eric Schwotzer Penn Gem International Pa s t P r e s i d e n t Eric Braunwart Columbia Gem House, Inc. Chief E x ecuti v e Officer Douglas K. Hucker

214-742-7334 FAX

www.addmorecolortoyourlife.com

On the Cover: 2009 Spectrum Awards winning morganite earrings by Richard Krementz Gemstones. 2009 Spectrum Awards winning star rose quartz ring by Jennifer Rabe Morin. Photographed by Jack Deutsch. 3

PRISM|WINTER 2009

most technologically “friendly” format.

It’s an honor and a privilege for me to

Please feel free to contact me at any

7. Stay up-to-date using the latest avail-

serve as AGTA’s new President. My term

time with your suggestions, questions,

able technology for marketing, not only

begins after the upcoming Tucson show.

criticisms or grievances. ▲

for AGTA as a whole, but, potentially,

I’ll do my very best to insure that AGTA

as an economical marketing option to

meets the challenges that face our trade.

Members who wish to utilize these fa-

As Barbara Lawrence ends her term as

cilities as they become available.

President, she leaves a strengthened As-

To accomplish all of the above and

sociation, having seamlessly wedded the

Benjamin (BJ) Hackman

more, we’ll need your participation and

Board’s directions to the Staff’s adminis-

AGTA Incoming President

active involvement to serve on committees

tration of those directions. I enter my term

and volunteer to serve on future Boards.

having the good fortune to follow Barba-

Please come forward. Help us to reinforce

ra’s highly productive tenure. May I do as

our message that AGTA is The Authority

well as she in forwarding the best interests

in Color™.

of our Association and our trade.

Letter

Fr o m t h e

How many of the Ten Commandants can you recite?

CEO

participants were more likely to engage in unethical behavior if they saw that same

I am an avid listener to National Public

behavior in folks they held in high regard

Radio, and I was particularly intrigued by

and less likely to emulate that behavior if

one broadcast last week. Seems the folks

it was evidenced in people for whom they

at Carnegie Mellon University, as a result

had less respect.

of the Bernie Madoff scandal on Wall

The lesson I took from this is that when

Street, decided to conduct a study in just

our clients come to our booths here at

how willing people were to bend the rules

AGTA GemFair™ Tucson, our behavior

(cheat) when faced with the opportunity.

will influence theirs. Our Members are

The study gathered a couple of dozen grad-

held in high regard by the jewelry indus-

uate students in a room and asked them to

try because of our commitment to ethical

answer twenty-five questions, for which

and professional business practices, and

they would be paid for correct answers.

our customers have every right to expect

Long story short, the test was conducted

and receive full and complete disclosure

in such a way that all of the participants

of treatments. If they see AGTA dealers

could clearly see if someone was cheating.

routinely neglecting to disclose on their

Seems that if the cheaters were wearing

invoices or memos, would it be any sur-

Carnegie Mellon sweatshirts, the other

prise that they would be less likely to do so

students (all Carnegie Mellon students)

themselves? Not according to the folks at

were more inclined to cheat, themselves;

Carnegie Mellon.

and if the cheaters were wearing University

Oh, by the way, one more segment of

of Pittsburgh sweatshirts, the rest of the

the Carnegie Mellon study determined that

students were less inclined to cheat. Ap-

when participants were asked, prior to the

parently, the participants held Carnegie

test, if they could recite each of the Ten

Mellon students in higher regard and had

Commandants, regardless of how many of

a fair amount of disdain for those from

the ten they could recite, no one engaged in

Pittsburgh.

cheating. I guess even an oblique reminder

The researchers concluded that the

All the best,

of our ethical commitments ensures greater

4

adherence. Each year, we send out a form for our Members to sign, in which they commit to our Code of Ethics. Might be a good idea if we all took just a short moment and read through them prior to signing the form. The AGTA Code of Ethics is available online at http://agta.org/about/ethics.html. ▲ See you all in Tucson!

Douglas K. Hucker AGTA Chief Executive Officer

PRISM|WINTER 2009

Countless hours of work by the Spectrum

competition comes after the winners are

featuring 158.26 ct. hand-carved natural

Committee Members, judges and AGTA

announced. AGTA hosts a viewing of all

enhanced Turquoise, white Diamonds (3.77

Staff go into making the competition

the entries in New York for members of

ctw.) and demantoid Garnets (.16 ctw.) set in

a reality each year. This year was no

the media and fashion community. One of

18K green and white gold.

exception. Under the guidance of the

the primary goals of the competition is to

Spectrum Awards Committee Chairman,

create excitement and exposure for colored

The Best Use of Color for the competition

Robert Bentley, the competition saw the

gemstones and cultured pearls through the

was the platinum “Kaleidoscope X2” ring

second most entries in its history— quite

media. Working with the New York based

featuring an 85 ct. Crystal surrounding

a feat in these economic times. We were

PR firm Lüp, AGTA was able to attract a

Diamonds (10.13 ctw.), Amethysts (2.50

thrilled to have a committed group of

great cross section of consumer media, trade

ctw.), Aquamarines (1.45 ctw.), fire Opals (.90

diverse judges: Tom Heyman of Oscar

press and stylists from television and film.

ctw.), Topaz (1.10 ctw.), Citrines (4.89 ctw.),

Heyman, Donna Sturm for Verdura,

The media day is gaining a great reputation

Garnets (2.13 ctw.) and Tourmalines (2.85

Claudia Mata from Town & Country

for those seeking out new trends in jewelry

ctw.). It was designed by James W. Currens,

magazine and lapidarist Walter Casaravilla.

design, gemstones and color. From initial

J.W. Currens, Inc., New York, NY. This entry

The judges volunteer their time to spend

reports, it looks like an incredible amount of

also won Fashion Forward Honors.

days locked away with all of the entries

exposure has been generated for the submitted

until they award all the winners. This is

jewelry and gemstones- winners and non-

Currens was also awarded the Best Use of

an intense process that is only made more

winners alike.

Pearls for his platinum and 18K yellow gold

difficult by the outstanding quality of the individual entries. Perhaps the most significant part of the

“Celebration” ring featuring a 16mm white The Best of Show distinction was awarded

South Sea Pearl, a 12.5mm golden South Sea

to Frederic Sage, Frederic Sage, Great Neck,

Pearl, a 14.4mm black Tahitian Pearl and a

NY, for his “Enchanted Stallion” brooch

10.15mm black Tahitian Pearl accented with

Best Use of Color

Best Use of Pearls J.W. Currens, Inc.

& Fashion Forward Honors J.W. Currens, Inc.

5

PRISM|WINTER 2009

white and yellow Diamonds (3.76 ctw.). A platinum necklace featuring a 112.84 ct. Aquamarine briolette accented with Diamonds and Aquamarines (4.79 ctw.) designed by Erica Courtney, Erica Courtney, Los Angeles, CA, was awarded the Best Use of Color and Platinum.

Best of Show

As you will see in the following pages, this

Frederic Sage

year’s winning pieces show innovative design elements paired with great quality gemstone and pearl material. The designs are a great tribute to the passion of each designer and help generate excitement for our product. We are looking forward to the next twenty-five years starting with the 2010 competition this Fall. So, get your jewelry and gemstones ready and be on the look-out for the AGTA Spectrum Awards™ entry information on wwww.agta.org.▲

Best Use of Color & Platinum Erica Courtney, Inc.

6

PRISM|WINTER 2009

Bridal Wear

1st Place Judy Evans Richard Krementz Gemstones Platinum earrings featuring Morganite briolettes (27.08 ctw.) accented with Diamonds (2.35 ctw.).

2nd Place Evelyn Clothier Evelyn Clothier Jewelry

3rd Place Carley McGee-Boehm Carley Jewels

Manufacturing Honors Michael Endlich Pave Fine Jewelry

2nd Place Erica Courtney Erica Courtney

3rd Place Jeffrey Bilgore Jeffrey Bilgore, LLC

Manufacturing Honors Richard Krementz Gemstones Richard Krementz Gemstones

2nd Place Jennifer Rabe Morin Jennifer Joailliers

3rd Place Ashleigh Branstetter Ashleigh Branstetter, LLC

Honorable Mention Glen J. Engelbrecht GJ Designs

Platinum earrings featuring white donut Agates accented with Diamonds (4.15 ctw.).

Palladium earrings featuring cuprian Tourmalines (18.09 ctw.) accented with black Spinel and rock crystal Quartz helioliths.

Platinum ring featuring a 2.85 ct. rainbow Moonstone cabochon accented with Diamonds (.20 ctw.).

Classical

1st Place Gregore Morin Gregore Joailliers

18K white and yellow gold frog brooch featuring Opals (2.32 ctw.), Moonstones (1.08 ctw.) and pink Sapphires (.03 ctw.).

Platinum ring featuring a 14.80 ct. cushion-cut blue-green Tourmaline accented with Diamonds (.70 ctw.).

18K yellow gold ring featuring a 17.51 ct. Chalcedony cabochon accented with Turquoise cabochons (3.10 ctw.) and Diamonds.

Platinum and 18K yellow gold ring featuring a 5.37 ct. blue Sapphire accented with Diamonds (1.05 ctw.).

Day Wear

1st Place Devta Doolan Devta Doolan Jewelry

24K yellow and 14K rose gold necklace featuring Jasper cabochons (630 ctw.).

18K yellow gold ring featuring a 32.10 ct. pink Tourmaline cabochon accented with Diamonds (.58 ctw.).

18K white gold ring featuring a 38.67 ct. star rose Quartz cabochon accented with pink Sapphires (7.19 ctw.) and Diamonds (1.04 ctw.).

7

18K yellow gold pendant featuring a drusy Quartz leaf accented with Diamonds (1.13 ctw.).

Platinum Honors Erica Courtney Erica Courtney

Platinum necklace featuring a 112.84 ct. Aquamarine briolette accented with Diamonds and Aquamarines (4.79 ctw.).

Honorable Mention Julie Buckareff JJ Buckar

Platinum Honors Aron Suna Suna Bros. Inc.

Manufacturing Honors Yehouda Saketkhou Yael Designs

Platinum Honors Evelyn Clothier Evelyn Clothier Jewelry

18K yellow gold cameo featuring a carved shell accented with white Diamonds (2.03 ctw.), tsavorite and spessartite Garnets (1.08 ctw.), pink, blue and yellow Sapphires (3.08 ctw.) and Paraiba Tourmalines (.30 ctw.).

Platinum ring featuring a 13mm black Tahitian Pearl accented with pave Diamonds.

Platinum ring featuring a 7.74 ct. antique cushion-cut Topaz accented with Diamonds (.62 ctw.).

Platinum earrings featuring trianglecut green Tourmalines (13.68 ctw.) accented with Diamonds (1.50 ctw.).

Evening Wear 1st Place Frederic Sage Frederic Sage

3rd Place Evelyn Clothier Evelyn Clothier Jewelry

2nd Place Julie Buckareff JJ Buckar

“Enchanted Stallion” brooch featuring 158.26 ct. handcarved natural Turquoise, white Diamonds (3.77 ctw.) and demantoid Garnets (.16 ctw.) set in 18K green and white gold.

Platinum “Ribbons” ring featuring an 11.50 ct. Tanzanite accented with ideal-cut Diamonds (3.50 ctw.).

Platinum earrings featuring green Beryl drops (70.86 ctw.) accented with square and round-cut Tourmalines (4.23 ctw.) and Diamonds (.78 ctw.).

Men’s Wear 2nd Place Robert Pelliccia J.R. Dunn Jewelers

1st Place Ricardo Basta E. Eichberg, Inc.

Platinum and 22K yellow gold ring featuring a 1.75 ct. emerald-cut Alexandrite accented with Diamond baguettes (.69 ctw.).

18K yellow gold and platinum cufflinks featuring lavender Chalcedony cabochons (14.70 ctw.), round yellow Sapphires (1.57 ctw.), round Diamonds (0.17 ctw.) and round Rubies (0.08 ctw.).

Consumer’s Choice Honors Classical Richard Krementz Richard Krementz Gemstones

Bridal Khai Le Charles Koll Jewellers

Platinum ring featuring a 2.71 ct. cushion-cut blue Sapphire accented with Diamonds (.15 ctw.)

Platinum ring featuring a 3.44 ct. champagne Diamond accented with white Diamonds (1.29 ctw.).

All Other Faceted

Classic Gemstone





Bridal 1st Place Bridal 3rd Place Khai Le John M. Bachman Khai Le Allen Kleiman CharlesJohn Koll M. Jewellers Charles Koll Jewellers Bachman, Inc. A. Kleiman & Co.



Platinum 29.92 ring featuring a 2.71 Platinum a 2.71 ct. natural yellow ring featuring 9.13 ct. heart-shaped natural ct. cushion-cut blue Sapphire ct. cushion-cut blue Sapphire Sapphire. yellow Sapphire. accented with Diamonds accented with Diamonds (.15 ctw.)2nd Place (.15 ctw.)

Joseph Ambalu Amba Gem Corp. 6.05 ct. emerald-cut natural blue Sapphire.

9



1st Place Jeffrey Bilgore Jeffrey Bilgore, LLC 11.44 ct. oval-cut red Spinel.

2nd Place Joseph Ambalu Amba Gem Corp. 10.45 ct. natural elbaite Tourmaline.

3rd Place Joseph Ambalu Amba Gem Corp. 8.62 ct. oval-cut natural Paraiba Tourmaline.

Manufacturing Honors Erica Courtney Erica Courtney

Honorable Mention Yehouda Saketkhou Yael Designs

18K yellow gold earrings featuring pear-shaped and antique cushion-cut Tanzanites (17.56 ctw.).

18K white and yellow gold ring featuring a 60. ct. yellow Sapphire accented with white and yellow Diamonds (10.0 ctw.).

Mark Schneider Mark Schneider Design Platinum ring featuring an 11.54 ct. indicolite Tourmaline accented with white and yellow Diamonds (1.58 ctw.).

Palladium ring featuring a 19.68 ct. oval brown Zircon.

22K and 18K yellow gold cufflinks featuring bi-color watermelon Tourmaline slices (30.50 ctw.).

Evening Wear Dennis deJonghe deJonghe

Day Wear Pamela Froman Pamela Froman Fine Jewelry





2nd Place Omi Nagpal Omi Gems, Inc. 5.98 ct. cushion-cut Alexandrite.

Platinum and 22K yellow gold ring featuring a 1.75 ct. emerald-cut Alexandrite accented with Diamond baguettes (.69 ctw.).

Pairs & Suites

Phenomenal

1st Place James W. Currens J.W. Currens, Inc. 34.80 ct. natural boulder Opal fancy cabochon.

Men’s Wear Robert Pelliccia J.R. Dunn Jewelers

Platinum pendant featuring a 17.06 ct. Aquamarine accented with an Iolite and Diamonds (.13 ctw.) on a strand of freshwater Pearls.

18K white, rose and green gold necklace featuring a 10.4mm golden South Sea Pearl, a bluegrey Tahitian Pearl and a greengrey Tahitian Pearl accented with Diamonds (.45 ctw.).



Platinum brooch featuring a .57 ct. brown Diamond accented with yellow Diamonds (.52 ctw.), Rubies, pink and yellow Sapphires (9.15 ctw.) and white Diamonds (1.58 ctw.).

Platinum Honors

Manufacturing Honors Ricardo Basta E. Eichberg, Inc.

3rd Place Jack Bigio Basser & Bigio, LLC

Platinum Honors Michael daCosta Fortune’s Fine Jewellery, Ltd.

3rd Place Stephen Kotlowski Zultanite Gems, LLC 80.25 ct. oval Zultanite.

10



1st Place Allen Kleiman A. Kleiman & Co. Pair of cushion-cut Peridot (28.47 ctw.).

3rd Place Thomas Trozzo Trozzo Suite of dimple-cut round Citrines (46.98 ctw.).

2nd Place Nandu Nichani Temple Trading Co. Pair of silver pear-shaped Moonstones (107.09 ctw.).

Honorable Mention David Brackna David A. Brackna, Gemcutter “Carousel”-cut assembled Opal inlaid and surrounded by Heliodor (17.58 ctw.).

PRISM|WINTER 2009

Carving

Faceting



1st Place Ben Kho Kho International, Ltd. 15.05 ct. cushion-cut Rhodochrosite.



3rd Place Christopher Wolfsberg K.S. Export, LLC 41.65 ct. modified square-cut Heliodor.

2nd Place Shawn Maddox Jewels From the Woods 19.01 ct. “Celestial Compass” Peridot.





1st Place Michael M. Dyber Michael M. Dyber dba Ledge Art Studio 89.79 ct. carved Aquamarine.

2nd Place Cheng Ming Milani Jewelry Co., Ltd. 11. ct. round Citrine.



3rd Place Darryl Alexander Alexander’s Jewelers 25.70 ct. “Autumn Forming” Agate free-form carving.

2nd Place Glenn Lehrer Lehrer Designs, Inc. “Solar Flare” 70.13 ct. carved transparent-orange Brazilian Opal.

Objects of Art

Combination



1st Place Larry Woods Jewels From the Woods 40.47 ct. Lightning Ridge Opal carving.

3rd Place John Dyer John Dyer & Co. 106.84 ct. “Aqua Exuberance” Aquamarine. Honorable Mention John Dyer John Dyer & Co. 27.12 ct. concave-cut trillion Aquamarine.

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1st Place Dalan Hargrave GemStarz Executive desk set featuring Lightning Ridge Opal, black Galaxy, black Jade and Quartz (1500 ctw.).



2nd Place Dalan Hargrave Juniper Ridge Opal “Cheese” carving featuring a full variety of Juniper Ridge Opal (2400 ctw.).

3rd Place R.A. “Art” Guyon International Gem Mart “Moods” sculpture of Jasper. Honorable Mention Robert Wander Robert Wander for Winc Creations Walking stick an 18K yellow gold flamingo handle featuring multi-colored Sapphires (95.58 ctw.) and chocolate Diamonds (1.57 ctw.).

PRISM|WINTER 2009

A

Model

Photographer

In 1977, fresh out of high school,

and resets my visual aesthetics. I try to

of each model. Deutsch likes to feel

Jack Deutsch came to New York from

synthesize some of the ideas that I feel I

comfortable with the models since they

Chicago. His plan was to take a year off

can achieve during the shoot day. I know

will be working under a lot pressure.

before going into medical school. By a

that I need to produce eight or nine shots,

fluke, he quickly began working as an

so I keep my goals realistic, but I still

The AGTA enlisted Deutsch once again

assistant photographer, and he never

strive to make photos that I and others find

to shoot for the 25th Anniversary of the

looked back. At 23, he was working for

really beautiful.”

AGTA Spectrum Awards™. The day gets

Gordon Munro when he received a call

under way early with hair and make-up for

for an assignment from “a friend of a

The secret to Deutsch’s successful cover

the models. The AGTA Staff creates the

friend.” The work was for American

shots is simple. He makes the jewelry the

suites of the winning pieces for Deutsch to

designing pioneer Geoffrey Beene. The

star. “The biggest challenge to shooting

capture. The stylist then brings out racks

fashion designer needed pictures for his

AGTA and jewelry in general is getting a

of clothes to pair with the winning jewels.

runway show. Jack’s photography and

beautiful and interesting photo with action

With roof-top access and different sets,

his innovative ideas launched him into

and dynamism and yet still getting the

the photo shoot gets under way. Moving

a national ad campaign in Vogue, Town

gemstone sharp and clear,” says Deutsch.

at a ferocious pace, the photographer, the

& Country and Harpers Bazaar. Geoffrey

models and the crew seamlessly transition

Beene would remain a client for the next

the sets for the next shot.

20 years. The day is long, but Deutsch captures nine Deutsch has done and shot it all: “I’ll

looks that are amazing. So amazing, that

shoot everything as long as it wants to

JCK Magazine, Jewellery Business, Instore

be photographed.” So, when the AGTA

and Modern Jeweler will be featuring

approached him to photograph the

AGTA Spectrum Awards™ model covers

Spectrum Awards in 2003, he agreed.

for the January/February issues.

The cover shots he creates are extremely important to the Association. They capture

To learn more about Jack Deutsch, visit

the winning jewelry and catapult the

www.jackdeutsch.com. To see some

designs and designers onto the covers

incredible shots that have been featured by

of trade magazines such as Canadian

A little “photocollaging” is necessary to

Jeweller, JCK Magazine, Jewellery

make it work. Jack and his crew gather the

Business, Instore and Modern Jeweler.

elements before the time of the shoot to

This type of exposure is what the Spectrum

anticipate the needs of the AGTA.

Awards is all about! Model selection is critical for Preparation for the AGTA Spectrum

photographing jewelry. Deutsch contacts

Awards™ shoot begins months in advance

his favorite bookers and begins to compile

with the initial booking, set design and

a list of models that will be available on

model selection.

the day of the AGTA shoot. He then makes recommendations and emails links to the

“For the weeks, and particularly the days,

AGTA for review. “We go back and forth

before the AGTA shoot, I look at as many

a few times until I feel comfortable that

beauty photos as possible. The internet

we have a tight selection,” states Deutsch.

is a great tool for this research, but as a

He then sees all the models in person. He

photographer I’m always looking at the

looks for good skin qualities, good hands,

natural world around me – taking a day

pierced ears, a great portfolio and a good

out for a long hike refreshes my vision

attitude. He heavily weighs the attitude

12

top magazines visit, www.agta.org. ▲

PRISM|WINTER 2009

Member Profile: Mark Schneider be more true, as this is the only job Mark has had since high school. From designs in nature, like one of his most recent and whimsical entries, a praying mantis, to a delicate ballerina, Schneider continues to enter the competition annually. According to Schneider, “It’s a crap shoot.” Having had the opportunity to serve as a judge, he does have keen insight on the rigorous judging process, the dynamics of working with industry experts and the constantly changing chemistry of the judges. The Southern California artist’s style is influenced by architecture, furniture, sculpture and nature. He leans towards organic sweeping designs that are fairly simple but complex when finished. Schneider’s designs serve multiple purposes: form, function and a utilization of space. His beautiful gemstone sculptures exude quality. Schneider does, however, admit to being guilty of breaking his own rules. The metal of choice for this talented designer to work in is 900 platinum. Schneider prefers platinum due to it beauty, luxurious polish, ease with setting gemstones and its lifelong durability.

AGTA Spectrum Awards™ winning designer Mark Schneider submitted his first piece into the competition in 1994. Since then, he has won a total of 26 Spectrum Awards. Schneider

A firm believer in allowing the gemstones to “talk to him” before

specializes in contemporary designs that are known for

he creates a design, Schneider’s philosophy of jewelry design is

their simple, clean, fluid lines and his discriminating taste in

to create wearable art. His passion for unusual gemstones is well

colored gemstones.

served by his friendship with several award-winning gemstone cutters, such as Stephen Avery, Michael Dyber, Steve Walters

When you have won as many times as Schneider, you have to

and Glenn Lehrer. He appreciates their talent for bringing out the

wonder what he does with all of the winning jewelry? Well, the

beauty of the gemstone. This makes for a creative collaboration

designs do get incorporated into his line, but he actually keeps

where he adds his own unique signature to the gemstone to

the original piece. Early on, his wife, Nancy, suggested that

create his distinct design. “I look for gemstones that are most

their daughters, Dana and Julie, each have a winning piece as a

challenging— the ones with fire, intensity, saturation of color —

keepsake. Then, when Mark won again, Nancy mentioned that

and then I look for a different way to set it,” adds the designer.

she needed her own keepsake as well. Moving forward, they

Schneider’s favorite gemstone to work with is tanzanite, due

made an agreement not to sell any winning pieces.

to its beauty and various hues, with his preferred color being a deep blue. He also enjoys working with organic materials such as pearls and ammolite.

Mark Schneider grew up as a third generation jeweler. His father started 63 years ago as a jobber. The company did not become interested in design and manufacturing until 1975. After

Throughout the design process, Schneider is intimately involved

his father passed away in 1981, Mark took his background in

with every process from the design’s conception to the final

business and art and applied it to his own designs. “I’ve been

touches that make his pieces unique and distinguishable. The

lucky; I have always known what I wanted to do.” This couldn’t

same can be said for his Colors Collection. The gemstones direct

13

PRISM|WINTER 2009

and tweak his imagination to create fashion forward jewelry.

To view some of Mark Schneider’s Spectrum-winning designs,

Schneider explains, “My designs are constantly moving and fit

visit www.agta.org.

into no particular niche.” To learn more about Schneider and his designs, visit him at AGTA GemFair™ Tucson and www.markschneiderdesign.com. ▲

Of course, when he is looking for materials, there is only one place to go— AGTA GemFair™ Tucson. Schneider has been attending GemFair Tucson as a shopper since 1985. He felt it was

A. Spectrum 2001

a reputable source for color. In 1995, GemFair opened its doors to

Spectrum Division 1

designers; Mark continued to be a shopper, as well as an exhibitor.

Faceted Tahitian Pearl ring with Tsavorite and Opal inlay.

So what advice does an AGTA Spectrum Awards™ winning

B. Spectrum 2003

designer have for rookies? First, develop a distinctive brand and

2nd Place Evening Wear

style. Second, establish a good framework for your business.

Tanzanite ring.

Schneider adds, “Get as much business knowledge as you can— it is not enough to just be an artist.” Lastly, enter the AGTA

C. Spectrum 2005

Spectrum Awards™! “I owe a lot to the Spectrum Awards — it has

Platinum Honors Business/Day Wear

been a big part of my success,” admits Schneider.

Emerald ring.

“The exposure from winning a Spectrum Award is worth $100,000 in advertising!” —Mark Schneider

A.

D. Spectrum 2006 3rd Place Business/Day Wear Black drusy Onyx, a rutilated Quartz and Mandarin Garnet pendant.

B.

C.

14

D.

PRISM|WINTER 2009

Th e Wo m a n B e h i n d t h e S p e c t r u m Awa r d s Tr o p h i e s

Polly Gessell has been crafting the trophies for the AGTA

At a young age, glass captured the imagination of the artist.

Spectrum Awards™ since its inception in 1984. The trophies

According to Gessell, “The magic still beckons me as I investigate

are awarded to the best jewelry designers in the industry based

and manipulate the glass of my craft. By accepting my carving,

on workmanship, creativity, innovation and excellence. The

texturing, and the subtleties of airbrushing, the flat, lifeless slabs of

same can be said for the woman behind the trophies. Each

glass seem to reveal a heretofore invisible heartbeat.”

year, her creations leave the winners in awe. By being at that right place at the right time with then-AGTA Each sand-blasted and carved glass trophy is different. “Sometimes

Executive Director Peggy Willett the relationship with AGTA was

I think I don’t have any designs left in me, and then I wake up and

born. Tons of glass later, the AGTA is still proud to have Polly

there are some more,” reveals Gessell. Inspired by a kaleidoscope,

Gessell create her special glass works of art for the Spectrum

Gessell mimics the facets of a jewel to develop her designs.

Award winners.

The trophy has not changed much over the past 25 years. One year

Gessell’s works are found in private collections throughout the

they were the shade of blue (see trophy at left), but for the most

world. Her restaurant and hotel work is admittedly where her

part they are the same basic configuration. Gessell says, “This is

heart finds its greatest satisfaction because utility transmits to

the most constant thing I have ever done, and it has helped me

art. Her client list includes such luminaries as the restaurants of

to become a better artist.” Her geometric and abstract style is set

Barbara Lazaroff and Wolfgang Puck, Mary Kay Cosmetics, Rolex

forth in sharp, clear-cut lines with great attention to details and is

Corporation, American Airlines, the Four Seasons Hotels and the

evident in all of the trophies created for the Awards.

National Football League’s Houston Texans.

Something new that the winners of this year’s 25th Anniversary

To learn more about Gessell and her designs, visit

competition will notice is that the artist has placed the number 25

www.gessellstudios.net. ▲

somewhere in the design (see trophy at right).

16

PRISM|WINTER 2009

Picturesque Inclusions in Low Clarity Natural Colored Diamonds By Marina Epelboym, Susan Paralusz, Hpone-Phyo Kan-Nyunt, Mark Cirkot and Dr. Lore Kiefert Commercial quality, natural colored diamonds come in a variety of shapes and sizes. Diamonds manufactured in thin slices with flat facets have become increasingly popular in the past year and are readily available in the jewelry trade today. The AGTA GTC had the opportunity to examine 25 of these natural colored diamonds with colors ranging from yellowish green to yellow, orange, brown, black, gray and near colorless. Figure 2: Color zoning surrounding a large graphite crystal in These diamonds are highly included to the naked eye, primarily

a 1.390 ct. bi-color near colorless and brown diamond gives

with fractures and graphite inclusions. Upon examination, we

the appearance of agate chalcedony. Photo: Marina Epelboym,

noted that many of the inclusions were arranged in patterns

©AGTA GTC

and presented picturesque scenes reminiscent of modern art or landscape agate or wherever your imagination takes you. The artistic inclusion scenes add to each diamond’s uniqueness. Several of the diamonds had a face-up, bi-color appearance due to inclusions and color zoning. A few of the diamonds contained intricate details that were best appreciated with a microscope. We hope you enjoy our photo array of these striking diamonds.

Figure 3: A Victorian tapestry patterned from numerous twin wisps and fissures is found in a 0.27 ct. diamond; it even looks tea stained. Photo: Hpone-Phyo Kan-Nyunt, ©AGTA GTC

Figure 1: These flat diamonds form part of a group analyzed by the AGTA GTC for an upcoming study to be presented at the GIT Conference in March 2009. The carat weights range from 2.944 ct. to 0.276 ct. (Diamonds courtesy of Lakhi Impex Inc., New York.) Photo: Hpone-Phyo Kan-Nyunt, ©AGTA GTC

Figure 4: A rose in full bloom formed from a centralized grouping of iron-stained fissures and particle clouds in a 0.76 ct. orange 17

diamond. Photo: Hpone-Phyo Kan-Nyunt, ©AGTA GTC

PRISM|WINTER 2009

is used to analyze colored diamonds and to determine if the color is natural or due to artificial irradiation. The AGTA GTC’s Raman micro-spectroscopy unit is employed to examine colorless diamonds that are suspected of being decolored by High Pressure High Temperature (HPHT) treatment. ▲ AGTA Members receive preferred pricing with the AGTA GTC. For current fees and other lab services, please contact: AGTA Gemological Testing Center 18 E. 48th St., Ste. 502 New York, NY 10017 Figure 5: Abstract art benefiting from the use of cleavage planes,

212-752-1717 T

fractures and particle clouds formed in this 1.33 ct. irregular-

212-750-0930 F

shaped diamond. Photo: Marina Epelboym, ©AGTA GTC

www.agta-gtc.org [email protected]

New

Members

Firm Members

Kingstone Gem Importers, Ltd. dba / Avente’ Kourosh Khaloyan

Associated Industry Professionals NTR Metals, Inc. Don Giddens

Estate Jewelers

D & E Singer, Inc. Diana Singer

Figure 6: Numerous fissures with heavy iron staining mix with twin wisps to create free-form abstract art in a 0.72 ct. color zoned

Introductory Members

near colorless and orange diamond. Photo: Hpone-Phyo Kan-

Coast Jewelry Designs Heather Stoddard

Nyunt, ©AGTA GTC

Manufacturing Members Cicici, Inc. Yan Wang

Danuta, Inc. Danuta Alyassin Erica Courtney Erica Courtney Evelyn Clothier Jewelry Evelyn Clothier Tanita Corporation Keith Ericson Yael Designs Yehouda Saketkhou Figure 7: A dog at play is fashioned from numerous reflecting

Student Members Barbara J. Eaton Celia Mamby Jimilea Marshall Jon Lieb Nancie Townsend Paul Silagi Robert M. Ihrig

iron-stained fissures in a 1.07 ct. triangular-shaped diamond. Photo: Marina Epelboym, ©AGTA GTC Got diamonds? No problem. The AGTA Gemological Testing Center can identify the nature of the apparent color, or lack of color, in a diamond. UV/visible low temperature spectroscopy 18

SOAR ABOVE THE COMPETITION.

JOIN AGTA TODAY. GET $200. Membership in the leading colored gemstone and cultured pearl Association, the AGTA, shows your customers that you are committed to the highest ethical standards. Take flight with this offer – see the AGTA Products Booth for more details.

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